First figure out whether the motor is stopping or the clutch is clicking. A clicking clutch is often normal. A motor that bogs down with the bit stuck is a different problem.
1. If it clicks, check the clutch
The numbered collar on a drill/driver is designed to slip at a selected torque when you are driving screws. On the DEWALT DCD771, the manual says settings 1 through 15 are the screwdriving range. Higher numbers allow more torque before the clutch slips.
If you are drilling a hole and the tool is clicking, move the collar to the drill symbol instead of a numbered screw setting.
Read the clutch-number guide if those numbers are still a mystery.
2. If the whole drill bogs down, stop squeezing the trigger
DEWALT specifically warns that an overloaded drill can stall and twist suddenly. The manual says to release the trigger immediately, remove the bit from the work and determine why it stalled. It also warns against repeatedly pulsing the trigger to restart a stalled drill.
A large bit that jams can make the drill body twist hard in your hands. Hold the tool securely and do not keep forcing a stalled bit.
3. Try speed 1 for a harder job
On the DCD771, speed 1 is the slower, higher-torque mechanical range. Speed 2 is faster. If the drill keeps struggling in speed 2, let the motor stop completely, move to speed 1 and try again with sensible pressure.
See when to use speed 1 vs. speed 2.
4. Check the bit before blaming the drill
A dull bit needs more force. A bit that is binding in a deep hole can stall the drill even if it started the hole easily. The DCD771 manual tells users to use sharp drill bits and to keep the motor running while pulling the bit out to help prevent jamming.
5. Try a known-good compatible battery
If you own another compatible battery, swap it in. If the drill suddenly behaves normally, the original battery deserves a closer look. If both batteries act the same, do not buy a third battery on a guess.
6. Ask whether the tool is simply too small for the repeated job
A compact drill/driver is wonderfully versatile, but it is not the best answer to every large fastener or repeated heavy-driving job. If your main problem is long screws and fastening rather than drilling, an impact driver may be the missing tool.
Use the drill-or-impact-driver guide before replacing a good drill.
A quick symptom table
| What you notice | Start here |
|---|---|
| Rapid clicking while the motor keeps running | Clutch setting |
| Motor slows hard and bit stops in the work | Binding, gear choice, bit condition, load |
| Works fine until the battery gets low | Battery charge or aging |
| Only one bit causes trouble | That bit, not the whole drill |
| Every normal job suddenly feels weak | Battery, charger or tool condition |
One useful test with scrap wood
If you are unsure whether the problem is the drill or the project, make the job simpler. Put in a sharp ordinary bit, use a piece of scrap wood and try a modest hole in speed 1. Then repeat with speed 2. A drill that behaves normally on an easy test but stalls on one demanding job is giving you very different information from a drill that cannot handle the easy test.
When buying something actually makes sense
Buy a bit when the bit is dull or damaged. Buy a battery when a known-good battery proves the tool is fine. Add an impact driver when repeated fastening is the real job. Replace the drill when ordinary tasks are failing even after you have ruled out setup, bits and battery.
That order matters because it keeps a $10 problem from becoming a $150 purchase.
Sources used for this answer
Back to class: Cordless Drill Class.